Paul and I just returned from a
four night mini vacation in Diamond, Oregon. Diamond is located in the farthest
southeast corner of Oregon, about as far as you can go without crossing into
Nevada. It is adjacent to the Malheur Wildlife Refuge and is part of the Great
Basin, a high plateau area unique because of its mix of ecosystems: high
desert, sage and marsh, bordered by the Steens Mountain and the Jackass
Mountain Range.
Some would say it is out in the
middle of nowhere. Why travel for at least six hours through remote country to
get there? Those who have been and return over and over again can answer your
question. It is truly a magical place, unique unto itself, a place to observe,
listen, learn and reflect. In simple terms, it grounds me.
The town of Diamond is made up of
a few ranches, a K-8 school and a hotel, Hotel Diamond, located at the end of
Diamond Lane. It is a historic hotel run by the Thompson family, a fifth
generation ranching family in Harney County. Many come to enjoy the rural
setting, bird watch and partake of the delicious family style meals served in
the evening. Evening supper at the hotel is an enjoyable mix of great food,
diverse people and lively conversation.
We love our evenings at the
hotel, but prefer staying at McCoy Creek down the road. The hotel has a
one-room bunkhouse and the old ranch house for rent. We always stay in the
little yellow house on the rise overlooking the pasture on the edge of the
canyon. I love being there and never tire of the opportunity to experience life
on a working cattle ranch. There is an entire world to enjoy just by looking
out the front picture window. If I were a lazy person, I could sit in the yard
and have an amazing vacation, just watching the goings on in my view. Early
mornings are my favorite, at first light, glancing out the window to see what
the day’s first revelation will be. That initial glimpse is a teaser, a little
taste of what a day exploring the nature reserve will bring, incredible sights,
sounds and experiences to treasure for a lifetime.
Every stay at Diamond holds
special memories, but this year the experience was intensified. It was as if
the universe had granted us a one time only dispensation, a special pass
granting unlimited access to the natural world, with nothing held back or
hidden from view.
Our journey felt different from
the beginning, starting with the long drive over. It was precipitated by a
conscious choice. Instead of pausing at the river for a break, I lobbied to
stop at the Warm Springs Reservation Market, a place I haven’t visited in at
least 10 years. True to form, I had a hidden agenda. An iced coffee is
delicious, but traditional Native American beadwork bags were the real draw.
As we entered the store, we
walked past a rather down-on-his-luck looking man. For some reason he caught my
attention, so I gave him a passing smile. He looked back at me, square in the
eye and said quietly, “I’m going to bless you.” He touched the back of my
right hand to his forehead and then to mine. It may seem naive, but I was
genuinely moved by his simple gesture, so touched that I didn’t wash the back
of my hand for the rest of the day, not wanting to squander his gift.
We left the store and were not on
the main road for more than two minutes when an eagle swooped down in front of
our car, scooping up a large branch in his talons. I was stunned, having
never been so close to such a magnificent creature. My body was shaking,
literally vibrating with excitement and it was several minutes before I
returned to reality. The magic of that quiet blessing had begun and would
continue to shape our journey in the most wonderful way.
Later that afternoon, we were a
couple of miles past The Narrows (a gas and grocery stop on the refuge), when
we saw an unusual sight. It was fresh road-kill, but not just any
road-kill. There was a brown fur lump on the gravel shoulder, which
proved to be a marmot upon closer examination. He laid spread eagle on his back
with all four legs straight up in the air, an expression of sheer terror on his
face. There was, however, not a mark on him. It was as if he had frozen in time
at the moment he saw the oncoming headlights, literally scared to death. We
continued on our way without taking a picture, because we were late for dinner
at the Hotel Diamond. Unfortunately, when we returned the next day, he
had vanished, the photo of a lifetime missed.
We hurried on our way, hungry,
tired and anxious to reach our destination, our objective being a delicious
dinner, well deserved after such a long drive. But as we turned onto Diamond
Lane, our thoughts of dinner evaporated as we rounded the curve, when an odd
and weirdly wonderful sight greeted us. Right in front of us, there on the side
of the road, sat two Turkey Vultures, side by side on rather large rocks.
They were hunched over, looking much like a macabre cartoon by Charles Addams,
but also rather like an old married couple enjoying the sunset on their front
porch swing. It seemed only fitting to christen them Fred and Ethel.
After a delicious dinner at the
hotel, I decided to go out in search of owls. The other birders had told
me that no owls had been spotted at the hotel this year. I decided to
call, using my own voice, since my I Phone with the app Chirp self-destructed
before our trip. I should have felt foolish, standing out in the dark
with the mosquitoes eating me alive, while I called, “Hoo-hoo hoo-hoo.”
But for some reason, it just felt right. I was soon rewarded with an echo
from the trees on the lane, and then the guy on the hillside chimed in. Soon,
we were all happily calling in unison. Apparently the owl in the lane was
convinced of my sincerity, because he flew in to meet me. Unfortunately
for both of us, our budding affair was doomed, as we were not species
compatible.
Early the next morning, I looked
out the ranch house window and saw, yet another incredible sight. There were
dozens of Ibis standing in the pasture mixed in with the chickens and
peacocks. The large stork-like birds were eagerly grazing on some
delicacy, their glossy coats shining in the morning sunlight. I
speculated that it was a new hatch of slugs, as the pasture was a sloppy mess;
the ground saturated with water. Ibis proved to be efficient gleaners and
over the next few days rid the pasture of pests. The worked for free,
unlike my children, who I used to pay a nickel a slug.
Each day we marveled at our luck,
as more incredible experiences were revealed to us. Like all good yarns, I’ve
saved the best for last.
When we drove through the green
gate on our first night at the ranch, we noticed two new horses, not an unusual
sight for a working cattle ranch. I decided to make friends with them. The next
morning, I cut up two apples so I could offer them a treat when we left for our
day’s wanderings. I was surprised when they turned their heads and walked away,
clearly refusing my offering. Horses on the ranch had always been affectionate
and friendly in the past. Undeterred, I got back in the car and offered the
treats from the relative safety of an open window, but they still shied away.
They were having none of it, shunning me as if I was the old hag in Snow White
offering them a poison apple. The rancher, Dan, noticed my puzzled
expression and explained that Saturday had been a workday and today was their day
off. They were not taking any chances, lest anyone get close enough to
put a bridle on them. They were young and unaccustomed to ranch life and the
long demanding workdays. A day of freedom was too dear a price to pay for a
mere apple.
Tuesday morning, we awoke to the
sight of a few Ibis scrounging the last of the slugs. Then out of the
corner of my eye, I caught a glimpse of the two young horses. It was a
magnificent sight as they galloped full tilt with their manes blowing in the
wind. It reminded me of a scene straight out of the movie Black
Beauty. The noble romantic sight soon turned comic, however, as I
realized the horses were not running with sheer joy and abandon, but away from
their nemesis, work, and the symbol, a man with a bridle in his hand, which
meant one thing – it would be a long, hot day in the canyon with a saddle and a
heavy load on your back.
But as we all know, work is
inevitable. And in the end, they were captured. You have to admire
their spunk, as they put up a good fight, finally being corralled by the man
with the bridle, assisted by two dogs, and a man on a motorcycle. To add
to their indignity, they were relegated to the paddock for the evening, where
they would be easier to catch the next morning. The other five horses,
trained to understand the rigors of ranch work, obedient and willing, had the
pasture to themselves. The two youngsters had to watch them frolic in the
pond and munch the green grass. I wonder if they’ll take a little easier to the
bridle next time.
The road to the ranch is a
well-traveled dirt road with potholes, the occasional boulder and gravel.
The first night, when we returned after dinner, we noticed a Killdeer running
in front of our car, leading us down the road. The next morning, the
little bird greeted us at the exact same bend in the road. Odd, I thought, but
then I remembered that Killdeer nest in gravel, in shallow holes in the
ground. Every single time we drove down the road, the vigilant little
bird would greet us, skittering down the path, leading us away from her
precious nest. I have never seen a more dedicated mother, as she never
failed to appear. One time when we stopped to take a photo, I think she
felt particularly threatened, so she added the Wounded Bird routine to her
usual act. She limped and spread her feathers out, feigning a broken
wing. We never paused again, fearful that we would cause her to have a
nervous breakdown. As we left today, she gave us a send-off, almost as if
she recognized the car. Instead of leading us away, she simply fluttered
to the side of the road and bobbed her head, as if to say, “See you later.”
As we drove down the road toward
Burns this morning, our departure was strangely anticlimactic. After so
many amazing sights we were greeted with an absence, there was simply nothing
out there. I didn’t want to be greedy, but secretly thought, Just one
more amazing sight. We rounded a curve and there it was before my eyes,
hundreds of sheep with their new lambs being driven down the highway to their
summer grazing land. We inched along among them, our car in a sea of sheep, as
I eagerly snapped pictures. Too soon, it was over.
I thought back to the Warm
Springs Market and the quiet man who had given me his blessing. I remembered
asking the storeowner if it was good to get a blessing from a Native. His
answer: “It depends on who blessed you.” I choose to think that it is not
only the blessing, but also more importantly, the willingness to accept
it. I’m glad that on that day I was able to suspend disbelief and open my
heart to receive a truly precious gift from a generous stranger.